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Shallot Long French Bulbs

2,50 € SKU: P 404

Seeds Gallery Com,

5/ 5

<h2>Shallot Long French Bulbs</h2> <h2>Price for package with 5 Bulbs</h2> An excellent, slightly elongated shallot, with copper-coloured skins and great tasting pink-tinged flesh. Each bulb yields 8-20 bulbs at harvest. Plant from mid January onwards. RHS Award of Garden Merit winner. Grown in Brittany, in the heart of France’s main shallot growing region, these superb certified varieties are of superior quality and will produce an outstanding crop for you. Hardiness:-5 degrees Bulbs:True Height:31-40cm Spread:11-20cm RHS Award of Garden Merit:True Beds & Borders:True Prefers Full Sun:True <h1 class="title style-scope ytd-video-primary-info-renderer"><a href="https://youtu.be/GGEb4C2bb9s" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">Harvesting Shallots & Potatoes & Leeks</a></h1> <h2>WIKIPEDIA:</h2> The shallot is a type of onion, specifically a botanical variety of the species Allium cepa. The shallot was formerly classified as a separate species, A. ascalonicum, a name now considered a synonym of the currently accepted name. Its close relatives include the garlic, leek, chive, and Chinese onion. <h2>Names</h2> <div class="thumb tright"> <div class="thumbinner"> <div class="thumbcaption">Shallots are called "small onions" in South India and are used extensively in cooking there.</div> </div> </div> Shallots probably originated in Central or Southwest Asia, travelling from there to India and the eastern Mediterranean. The name "shallot" comes from Ashkelon, an ancient Canaanite city,[5] where people in classical Greek times believed shallots originated.[6] The name shallot is also used for the Persian shallot (A. stipitatum), from the Zagros Mountains in Iran and Iraq. The term shallot is further used for the French red shallot (Allium cepa var. aggregatum, or the A. cepa Aggregatum Group) and the French gray shallot or griselle (Allium oschaninii), a species referred to as "true shallot";[6] it grows wild from Central to Southwest Asia. The name shallot is also used for a scallion in New Orleans and among English-speaking people in Quebec while the term French shallot refers to the plant referred to on this page.[7] Anglophone Quebecers and British English speakers stress the second syllable of shallot. The term eschalot, derived from the French word échalote, can also be used to refer to the shallot.[8] <h2>Description and cultivation</h2> <div class="thumb tleft"> <div class="thumbinner"><img alt="" src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a4/A._cepa_var._aggregatum_conreu.JPG/150px-A._cepa_var._aggregatum_conreu.JPG" width="150" height="113" class="thumbimage" /><div class="thumbcaption"> <div class="magnify"></div> Shallot plant (A. cepa var. aggregatum) growing in Castelltallat, Spain</div> </div> </div> <div class="thumb tright"> <div class="thumbinner"><img alt="" src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/9c/2005onion_and_shallot.PNG/150px-2005onion_and_shallot.PNG" width="150" height="66" class="thumbimage" /><div class="thumbcaption"> <div class="magnify"></div> Onion and shallot output in 2005</div> </div> </div> <div class="thumb tright"> <div class="thumbinner"><img alt="" src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/e/e2/Shallot_whole_plant.jpg/220px-Shallot_whole_plant.jpg" width="220" height="60" class="thumbimage" /><div class="thumbcaption"> <div class="magnify"></div> Whole shallot plants, consist of roots, bulbs, leaves, stalks, and flowers</div> </div> </div> <div class="thumb tright"> <div class="thumbinner"><img alt="" src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/06/Shallot_seeds.png/150px-Shallot_seeds.png" width="150" height="113" class="thumbimage" /><div class="thumbcaption"> <div class="magnify"></div> Shallot seeds</div> </div> </div> <div class="thumb tleft"> <div class="thumbinner"><img alt="" src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/f/fe/Shallot_%28Sambar_Onion%29_%281%29.JPG/150px-Shallot_%28Sambar_Onion%29_%281%29.JPG" width="150" height="113" class="thumbimage" /><div class="thumbcaption"> <div class="magnify"></div> Shallots on sale in India</div> </div> </div> Like garlic, shallots are formed in clusters of offsets with a head composed of multiple cloves. The skin colour of shallots can vary from golden brown to gray to rose red, and their off-white flesh is usually tinged with green or magenta. Shallots are extensively cultivated for culinary uses, propagated by offsets. In some regions ("long-season areas"), the offsets are usually planted in autumn (September or October in the Northern Hemisphere).[9] In some other regions, the suggested planting time for the principal crop is early spring (typically in February or the beginning of March in the Northern Hemisphere). In planting, the tops of the bulbs should be kept a little above ground, and the soil surrounding the bulbs is often drawn away when the roots have taken hold. They come to maturity in summer, although fresh shallots can now be found year-round in supermarkets. Shallots should not be planted on ground recently manured. In Africa, shallots are grown in the area around Anloga in southeastern Ghana. Shallots suffer damage from leek moth larvae, which mine into the leaves or bulbs of the plant.

P 404

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Welsh Onion Seeds (Allium...

1,55 € SKU: MHS 142

Seeds Gallery Com,

5/ 5

<h2>Welsh Onion Seeds (Allium fistulosum)</h2> <h2>Price for Package of 50 (0,13 g) seeds.</h2> Long-term Welsh onion – one of ancient useful plants who can provide with valuable vitamin greens in the early spring. Its bright shoots are shown when even not all snow melted on a country site. In the people to it thought up many names: dudchaty, Chinese, sand, Tatar. Gentle, not really sharp "plumelets" are suitable for salads, garnishes, okroshka. Description and characteristic of Welsh onion Externally these onions are similar on everything the known napiform. But here the bulb underground at it is not formed. The basis of escape has only a small expansion called by botanists a false bulb. It is formed because the bases of sheet vaginas are thickened. The underground part of Welsh onion lives in the earth some years, and here the land part presented by leaves and tsvetonosa annually dies off during the autumn period. For Welsh onion strong branching, existence of a set of modified dudchaty leaves, hollow is characteristic inside. They accrue gradually, gaining the power. Depending on a grade, height of Welsh onion can be from 40 to 60 cm. For the second year of life Welsh onion throws out flower shooters, which length about 45 cm. Growing on one place, these onions well give greens for seven years. But it is best of all it does in the first four years. Then productivity considerably falls, it is connected with strong growth of underground part. Therefore in four years it should be seated in other places of a site. Surprisingly, but shoots of Welsh onion are capable to transfer spring frosts when stem of thermometer falls lower than zero by eight degrees. And here adult plants normally winter even if temperature will be-45 degrees. Therefore it is sowed often by Siberian summer residents. For normal development these onions need long light day. Optimum temperature for fast development from 18 to 22 degrees. Vitamin C in Welsh onion is approximately twice more, than in a turnip. There are in it phytoncides, essential oils, vitamins: carotene, B1, V2, PP, mineral salts of calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, iron, potassium. The Chinese and Tibetan Aesculapians actively use Welsh onion as the antiseptic, all-strengthening means at treatment of gastrointestinal diseases, feverish states, skin illnesses. It is recommended to eat to hypertensive persons, it improves elastic properties of walls of capillaries. Site for Welsh onion This perennial cannot be placed on low, flooded places. A bed it is better for it to do the high. The excellent crop can be received on the structural, generously flavored with organic chemistry light loams or sandy loams. Boggy or heavy clay soil does not suit Welsh onion at all. It is also necessary to consider that on sandy and peaty soil which tend to drying, the strelkovaniye occurs much quicker. Sour soils before landing by all means should be izvestkovat or changed, adding a dolomitic flour when redigging. Well sites where grew cabbage, pumpkin, vegetable marrows, potatoes earlier are suitable for Welsh onion. If soils at you poor, on square meter it is necessary to bring about 5 kg of humus, 25 grams of ammonium nitrate, 15 grams of chloride potassium, 25 grams of superphosphate. It is better to prepare a site for Welsh onion even in the fall. Landing It is possible to sow Welsh onion from the last days of April to the last decade of July – here such long period. But that the earth was not empty if you decided to sow Welsh onion in the summer, in the spring on this place can put salad, fennel, the Beijing cabbage or a radish so far, and then after their cleaning to place Welsh onion there. At first it is desirable to wet seeds in water or solution of microfertilizers (one tablet on water liter undertakes). Only watch that seeds did not give long boring, such seeds will complicate landing process. We at first for 20 minutes presoak seeds in potassium permanganate solution (warm), and then in usual warm water which constantly we change. In advance before landing humidify the bed, and then already do grooves. On square meter about two grams of seeds leave. Depth of seal fluctuates from 1 to 2 cm (everything depends on your soil). Between plants there has to be a distance not less than 6 cm, and between ryadochka – on 18 cm. If carry out landing in the early spring (April), it is better to cover a gryadochka with a film or other ukryvny material. It will be necessary to remove it when boring seems. Recommendations about further leaving And everything is farther it will be simpler – acquaintances to us loosening, timely watering, weedings, top dressing if necessary. InfoAdvisor.net will notice that loosening it is desirable to carry out after each rain (or watering). Then the soil crust will not be formed, air will be better to get into the earth, it will more long keep moisture. When Welsh onion does not have moisture, it "becomes angry" - tastes bitter and grows coarse. If seeds from these onions are not required for you, tear off flower arrows. Now about podkormka. Do the first of them in 30 days after shoots get out, using an azofoska or a nitrofoska (on square meter take them 10 grams). Also the divorced dung water is good. That onions wintered better, in October carry out top dressing with potash fertilizers (their number of 10 grams on square meter). The next year in the spring as soon as from a gryadochka snow leaves, clean the remains of plants, cover it with ukryvny material. If build a parnichok, for example, by means of arches, receive green material for about fifteen days earlier. If to carry out having watered with warm water, it too will accelerate receiving greens. If you wish to grow up Welsh onion as an odnoletnik then it is better to resort to a rassadny way of cultivation. At first sow seeds in the spring in glasses on some pieces, keep them in the greenhouse. And then already send to an open ground when at plants is on four leaves. Usually such occurs in the middle of May. Then in the middle of July you receive a good harvest of sound Welsh onion. If contain Welsh onion as part of affiliated plants dig out perennial, each three or four years with the earth and replace in other place. Such way of reproduction, simple division of a big bush, is very convenient. Still such expanded bushes can be dug out with an earth lump over time and then to use for a vygonka to receive vitamin greens. It works well even on a window sill in the container. Sometimes Welsh onion gets sick peronosporozy, the pale green specks blurring on a stalk and a gray-violet raid testify to it. Here it is necessary to do processing by specifics. If in plumelets you noticed a white worm, this is the wrecker called by the onions miner. Can lead its defeat to rotting of a false bulb onions flies (their larvae). Transparent, whitish stripes on a stalk of Welsh onion is a sign of that in a stalk the onions weevil was brought. It is a little about harvesting. During the season it is possible to carry out some cuts (at ground level) of the accruing green material – gentle "plumelets". Manage to make the last cut to the middle of August that onions could be prepared for wintering.

MHS 142 (50 S)

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Seeds - Tree Onions,...

7,95 € SKU: P 353

Seeds Gallery Com,

5/ 5

<!DOCTYPE html> <html> <head> <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8" /> </head> <body> <h2>Seeds - Tree Onions, Egyptian Walking Onions, Topsetting Onions</h2> <h2>Price for Package of 3 bulbs.</h2> As their scientific name "Allium proliferum" states, these hardy little onions are very "prolific." After planting them in your garden you will have onions every year for years to come! Egyptian Walking Onions are also called "Tree Onions, Egyptian Tree Onions, Top Onions, Winter Onions, or Perennial Onions." Egyptian Walking Onions are one of the first plants to emerge in the spring. The leaves poke up through the soil like little green spikes and shoot towards the sky despite the frost or snow. The blue-green leaves are round and hollow and will grow up to 3 feet in height. At the the end of a leaf stalk, at the top of the plant, a cluster of bulblets will begin to grow. These bulblets are also known as "bulbils" or "sets." We will refer to them as "topsets" throughout this website. Every Egyptian Walking Onion plant will produce a cluster of sets at the top, hence the name, "Top Onion," meaning they are top-setting onions. In early spring topsets first appear encased in a protective papery tunic. As they grow, this papery capsule will tear open and eventually fall off. The topsets reach maturity in late summer. Many of them have little green sprouts and mini root nodules. They look like mini versions of the parent plant. When the topsets become heavy enough, they will pull the plant over to the ground. If the soil conditions are right, the fallen topsets will take root and grow into new Egyptian Walking Onion plants, hence the name, "Walking Onion." They will literally walk across your garden! Although the Egyptian Walking Onion is a top-setting onion, it will occasionally produce miniature flowers among its topsets. The flowers are about 1/4" wide. They have 6 white petals and 6 stamens. Each petal has a vertical pea-green stripe. Most of the flowers dry up and wither as the topsets compete with them for energy. So an Egyptian Walking Onion seed is a rarity - at least I've never seen a mature and viable one. An Egyptian Walking Onion topset looks like, and essentially is, a miniature onion. Topsets produced by these plants are generally smaller than the ordinary annual garden variety onion sets. They range in size from 1/4 inch to 1 inch in diameter. Each cluster can have as few as 1 or 2 topsets, or as many as 30 or more topsets. Sometimes a new leaf stalk will emerge from a cluster of topsets like a little branch, and a second cluster will grow from it, hence the name, "Tree Onion." In the ground, the Egyptian Walking Onion plant produces a small shallot-like onion which can be harvested. Once harvested, however, the plant will obviously not grow back. If left in the ground, the onion will divide and form a cluster of onion bulbs. New leaves and topsets will grow from the onions each year. The bulbs in the photo on the right grew from one mature Egyptian Walking Onion bulb in one growing season - 1 plant became 6 plants! There is a lot of variation in Egyptian Walking Onion plants. Some plants form long, twisting branches and very few topsets, while others produce large clusters of topsets and no branches. Some plants grow only 2 topsets and others will grow 30! Every plant is so unique and beautiful. They can be grown for both food and ornamental purposes. Egyptian Walking Onions are perennial plants and will grow back each year and yield new and bigger clusters of sets on the top and new onion bulbs in the soil - they will divide. During their first year of growth they will not produce topsets (although there are some exceptions depending on your growing conditions). You might see only greens the first year. But don't be disappointed, your Egyptian Walking Onion plants will grow back the following year in full force and produce their first clusters of topsets. Once established, plants may be propagated by division or by planting the topsets. Egyptian Walking Onions are extremely hardy plants. Our plants have endured harsh winters with temperatures plummeting down to -24° below zero! Hence the name, "Winter Onion." They grow well in zones 3-9. <h2>How and when to plant your Egyptian Walking Onion sets:</h2> Plant each "topset" in the soil about 2 inches deep. Soil should be slightly moist and well drained. Egyptian Walking Onions hate wet feet! Plant in rows about 1 foot apart. The sets should be spaced approximately 6-10 inches apart in each row. Plant in full sunlight. Partial shade is ok too, but full sun is the best for optimal growth. Egyptian Walking Onion sets can also be planted in clusters. When planted this way they make a great addition to your herb garden. They can even be planted in pots to be kept outside or indoors. They can be planted any time of the year even in the winter as long as the ground isn't frozen or covered with snow. However, fall is the optimal time to plant them so they can develop a strong root system and be ready for good growth the following spring. NOTE: Egyptian Walking Onions topsets will not produce topsets during their first year of growth (although I have seen the "jumbo" topsets produce tiny topsets during their first year of growth). Topsets will grow during the plant's second year and every year thereafter. The following is a list of what to expect when planting your sets at different times of the year: Planting in the spring: This is a good time to plant your Egyptian Walking onion topsets. The topsets will grow throughout the spring and summer and develop tall green leaves and bulb/root growth in the ground. Since it is the plant's first growing season, it will probably not produce topsets, unless it is a huge (jumbo) topset. Planting in the summer: Topsets planted at this time will grow roots and leafstalks, and have some onion bulb development in the ground, but they will not produce topsets. Planting in the fall: This is the optimum time to plant your Egyptian Walking Onion topsets. Topsets planted at this time will grow roots and leafstalks only. The leafstalk will die back for the winter. The topset will develop into a small onion bulb in the ground and store enough energy to carry itslef through the winter. A leafstalk will reemerge in the spring and the plant will grow throughout the spring and summer to maturity. More than likely, there will be no topset growth the first summer, but some plants have produced topsets their first summer after planting in the fall. Planting in the winter: Yes! You can plant Egyptian Walking Onion topsets in the winter as long as the soil is not frozen. If you can dig a 2" deep hole in the soil, then you can plant your sets. The topsets will not grow much at all - maybe a little bit of root growth only, unless you live where the winters are mild. If this is the case, you might also get a leafstalk. When planting in the winter, mulching is a good idea. In fact, mulching is good practice at any time of the year. Mulching keeps the weeds down, prevents unnecessary water evaporation and erosion, and fertilizes your plants. Planting by Nature: unharvested topsets that are left to lie on the ground will self-sew. No planting necessary, they will grown on their own. <h2>How to Harvest Your Egyptian Walking Onions:</h2> Harvesting the topsets: In mid to late summer and autumn the topsets may be harvested. The optimal time to pluck off the topsets is when the stalk has dried and turned brown. More than likely, it has fallen over by this time. Be sure to remove any topsets that have fallen to the ground if you do not want them to self-sow in their new locations. Despite their name, these plants are very easy to control and keep from spreading just by harvesting the topsets. You can eat, plant, or store your Egyptian Walking Onion topsets. Harvesting the greens: The greens (leaves) may be cut and harvested at any time of the year. Just harvest one or two leaves from each plant. Be careful not to cut the stalk that has the topsets. Soon after you have harvested the leaves from an Egyptian Walking Onion plant, new leaves will start to grow in their place which can be harvested again. If you live in a mild climate, your Egyptian Walking Onion plant may produce greens all year round. In the fall after the topsets have matured and fallen to the ground, or after they have been harvested, new greens will start to grow - yummy! Harvesting the onion bulbs in the ground: The onions at the base of the plant that are growing in the ground can be harvested in late summer and fall. Be sure to leave some onions in the ground for next year's crop. An Egyptian Walking Onion bulb is about the same size and shape as a shallot. Bigger bulbs may be obtained by cutting off the topsets before they develop. That way the plant can put its energy into the onion bulb in the ground instead of into the topsets. Note: if you harvest the onion bulb in the ground, you will destroy the plant - it will not grow back next year. So, if you want to eat the onion bulbs in the ground, make sure to replace them by planting topsets, or offsets from the bulb (divisions). <h2>How to eat your Egyptian Walking Onions:</h2> Egyptian Walking Onions taste just like a regular onion, only with a bit more pizzazz! The entire plant can be eaten. Shallot-like onions form at the base in the soil. They can be eaten and prepared just like any other onion. The hollow greens may be chopped to eat like chives or green onions. They are excellent when fried, cooked in soups, or raw in salads (my favorite). The topsets are excellent when peeled and fried. You can even pickle them. Or just pop them in your mouth like popcorn! Watch out, they're a little spicy! <h2>Names of the Egyptian Walking Onion:</h2> Common names: "Egyptian Walking Onion" or "Walking Onion": The name "Egyptian" is very mysterious. The ancient Egyptians worshipped onions. They believed that its spherical shape and concentric rings symbolized eternal life. Onions were even used in Egyptian burials for the pharaohs. Small onions were found in the eye sockets of Ramesses IV. It is not known whether the Egyptian Walking Onion came from the Egyptians or not. The "Egyptian" part of the name remains a mystery. Maybe the name refers to the way they walk.....do they "walk like an Egyptian?" The name "Walking Onion" was given to this plant because it literally walks to new locations. When the cluster of topsets becomes heavy enough, it will pull the plant over to the ground. Depending on how tall the plant is and where the bend occurs, the topsets may fall up to 3 feet away from the base of the plant. Here, if the conditions are right, they will take root and grow new plants. When these new plants mature, their topsets will eventually fall to the ground and start the process all over again. Egyptian Walking Onion plants can walk between 1 and 3 feet per year! "Tree Onion": Egyptian Walking Onions are known for their ability to grow a twisting stalk from the cluster of sets at the top of the plant. Another cluster of sets will grow at the end of this second stalk giving the plant a branching, tree-like appearance. "Top Onion", "Topset Onion", or "Top Setting Onion": Egyptian Walking Onions grow a cluster of sets at the top of the plant instead of seeds. "Winter Onion": These Onions can survive freezing cold winters with temperatures plummeting well below 24°F! They are hardy to zone 3. Taxonomic names: The following three scientific names refer to the Egyptian Walking Onion plant: Allium cepa var. proliferum Egyptian Walking Onions are proliferous. A proliferous plant produces new individuals by budding. This type of plant also produces offshoots, especially from unusual places. In the case of the Egyptian Walking Onion, an offshoot will grow out form cluster of sets. Proliferous plants produce an organ or shoot from an organ that is itself normally the last, as a shoot or a new flower from the midst of a flower. In the case of the Egyptian Walking Onion, a cluster of topsets grows from a cluster of topsets forming a multi-tiered plant. Allium cepa var. bulbiferous Egyptian Walking Onions are bulbiferous. They produce bulbs! Allium cepa var. viviparum Eyptian Walking Onions are viviparous. They produce bulbils or new plants rather than seed. Egyptian Walking Onion sets germinate while still attached to the parent plant. They can be seen growing leaves and roots before they ever touch the ground. Kingdom: Plantae (plants) Subkingdom: Viridaeplantae (green plants) Infrakingdom: Streptophyta (land plants) Division: Tracheophyta (vascular plants) Subdivision: Spermatophytina (seed plants) Infradivision: Angiospermae (flowering plants) Class: Magnoliopsida Superorder: Lilianae (monocotyledon - having one seed leaf) Order: Asparagales Family: Amaryllidaceae Subfamily: Allioideae Genus: Allium (onion) Species: cepa Variations: proliferum bulbiferum viviparum multiplicans </body> </html>

P 353

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Onion Seeds Paris...

1,45 € SKU: MHS 143

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White Lisbon Bunching Onion...

1,95 € SKU: MHS 144

Seeds Gallery Com,

5/ 5

<h2>Onion Seed White Lisbon (Allium cepa)</h2> <h2>Price for Package of 250 (1 g) seeds.</h2> The White Lisbon is an old favourite and ever-popular very quick growing salad spring onion. It is a hardy and reliable variety which features long white stems with bright green tops. It is quick and easy to grow, cropping in 60 days. Although, traditionally the most popular Spring Onion for successional sowings from March to September, it can also be sown in autumn and overwintered for early spring harvests. They are perfect for container growing and can be tucked into mixed containers or beds White Lisbon is Indispensable for a decent salad, with silvery skin and crisp, succulent stems that have a mild onion flavour with that characteristic 'bite'. Delicious when young, they take on a more pungent flavour as the bulbs swell. Sow little and often, fortnightly from March onwards, will give a good supply through the summer. Preparation: An ideal position would be an open, sunny site with good drainage which has been dug and manured in the previous autumn. Do not plant or sow on the freshly manured bed. Avoid planting in an area where the previous crop was of the onion family. Many exhibitors grow their show onions in a permanent bed in order to build up fertility, but in the kitchen plot, it is a much better idea to change the site annually. Onions prefer a neutral to slightly alkaline soil so lime if the soil is acid. Apply a general fertiliser if needed and rake the surface when the soil is reasonably dry. Tread over the area and then rake again to produce a fine, even tilth. Sowing: Sow in autumn or sow successionally from late winter to late summer. In cold areas and for exhibition bulbs sow under glass in January, Sow thinly 12mm (½in) deep in either narrow or broad drills allowing 15 to 23cm (6 to 9in) between drills. No thinning is necessary. The seed germinates over a wide range of temperatures and is faster at higher temperatures. Sow every 3 weeks for continuous crops. Cultivation: Keep well watered for best quality crops, especially during spells of dry weather. It will stand well for long periods if kept well watered. Hoe carefully or weed by hand – dense weed growth will seriously affect yield. Harvesting: 60 days Harvest as required from May to October, later sowings may remain through to December if the weather remains mild. Best when used immediately though they will keep in the fridge for a few days. Culinary Use: Spring onions can be used for so much more than just adding to your Peking Duck pancakes. When raw or very lightly cooked they impart a wonderfully vibrant yet mild flavour where normal onions would be overpowering. Make some champ by folding chopped spring onions into creamy mashed potatoes - add some grated cheddar if you like - and marvel at how such a simple dish can taste so fantastic. Or combine with ginger to form the soul of a number of classic Chinese and Japanese dishes. Trim off the root and about a centimetre from the green tops. The bulb area can be eaten raw or cooked but the tops are best when chopped and added to a dish just before serving. Store in the fridge for up to four days. Nutrition: For years onions have been used as one of the oldest medicines for their anti-bacterial, antiseptic and anti-asthmatic properties. They have also shown to lower blood pressure and cholesterol levels. Pest Repellent: As a member of the allium family, they will help to deter most insects, including aphids, mosquitoes, carrot flies and tomato pests. They are also useful in the fight against, moles, mice slugs and weevils! Rotation considerations: Avoid following onions, shallots, garlic or chives. Good Companions: Beet, carrot, celery, parsley and tomato. Bad Companions: Alfalfa, beans, peas - Onions inhibit the growth of legumes. History: Eaten and cultivated since prehistoric times, onions were mentioned in the first dynasty of ancient Egypt, circa 3200 BC, and have appeared in tomb paintings, inscriptions and documents from that time on. Some paintings depict onions heaped onto banquet tables, both the robust bulb onions as well as scallions. The spring onion is believed to have originated in the Far East. Chives and spring onion are recorded in Chinese history from 2000 BC. They were grown in Ancient Egypt, and eventually arrived in Rome and became known as the word onion from the Latin word Unio , which means 'large pearl'. In Middle English, it became unyon, as time passed the word developed into the onion.

MHS 144 (250 S)

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